Leaving New Zealand has caused me to reflect on it and -as is so often the case- with distance comes clarity.
New Zealand possesses a quiet that most of the world seems to have lost. Maybe that’s why so many of us are drawn there: we’re seeking what our home countries lack and at the same time what we still know instinctively to be a part of the human experience. We live prescribed lives; we wake up, eat a rushed breakfast, go to work, share a few quick conversations with our colleagues throughout the day, then go home exhausted and without enough time to spend with the people we love; we repeat it all the next day. The treadmill is speeding up more and more and yet some voice inside tells us this doesn’t have to be THE WAY. So one day we buy a ticket, pack our bags, and GO.
At least that’s what I decided to do one year ago.
Leaving Auckland aside for the purpose of romantic license, New Zealand is a peaceful, serene land that remains unjaded in comparison to other popular tourist spots like Hawaii or Bali. This makes it the perfect training ground for people finding their way. Safe, cruisy, and open minded, New Zealand offers young travelers the opportunity to get to know themselves in a rather unstressed fashion. There’s not so much pressure to make a lot of Money (unless of course the traveler puts that pressure on herself) and the cost of living is low compared to other parts of the Northern Hemisphere. Vans with mattresses in the back are tolerated and usually allowed to park on the streets (though it does become stricter in the middle of the high season when all the tourists come out) and in many places it’s still possible to set up tents without having to pay (referred to as “freedom camping” by the Department of Conservation).
Despite the pull of the hedonistic life, many backpackers work insane hours (60 or more a week) at a mundane job such as picking kiwifruit. They do this for a month or two and then take off to go traveling. I preferred to work less hours and spend the down time at the beach, writing, reading, or with friends. Occasional weekend trips sated the desire for travel and still afforded me the luxury of time to develop creative projects. Through this simple lifestyle I felt a balance that I’d wanted so badly in the States. I can’t say that this balance isn’t possible there, only that in New Zealand I found it much easier.
Part of this balance is most certainly due to the Kiwis themselves. Kiwis don’t rush or get stressed in the way that many other people around the world do nowadays. When at work they make sure to take breaks (especially on sunny days) and they always have time to chat with passer bys. If you need a lift somewhere you can walk to a main road, stick out your thumb and there’s a good chance you’ll get a ride. Kiwis trust. And it’s wonderful to feel that trust as a backpacker. Whereas in other places you may be looked on with suspicion, in New Zealand you are treated with respect which makes you want to send that respect back.
But alas, the world is constantly shifting and evolving and New Zealand is no exception. A friend who moved there from England often said with a smile on his face: “New Zealand is 10 years behind the rest of the world.” He’s happy to live in a place where people earn enough to get by, and still have time for barbies with their friends. Of course the implication is that New Zealand will “catch up” with its fellow countries and I cringe to think of what that might look like. Then again, maybe the type of people (like my English friend) who migrate there will help protect that way of life. Or maybe those of us in other countries will decide that a slower, more balanced lifestyle is needed, and so we’ll work to consciously create the “New Zealand experience” wherever we are.
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